Well today was a day of surprises. When I woke I did knew today was the day when I started some ascent after a flat middle England. Some decisions had to be made, as the nights B&B did not have any eating places near, I would have to fuel up some place beforehand. Choices were not plentiful, infact en route , the choice was Shap. There was a hotel about a mile of the a6, but the 2 mile detour was not appealing. So given Shap was the choice I tried to delay my arrival into Shap until at least the chippy was open, but I do know what's happened to me, even with the ascent I arrived at 15.30. Right between dinner closing and evening opening times.
Now Shap and food have bad memories for me and others who did the Wainwright Coast to Coast Walk, having to spend almost the whole night waiting for our order to be delivered and getting into a couple to arguments with the pub management team about the "lack of service", so Shap was kindly remembered. However, 10 years on, my faith has been fully resorted as on entering at 15.15, expecting to have to hang around un necessarily (and in the rain) to opening time, I found the haven that is called the "King's Arms" which serve food throughout the afternoon. And unlike 10 years ago they actually did serve it, I was so full that now the worry was could I actually move after that mass of food?
Second suprise was that during my climb to the top of Shap Fell at 420m, I found myself sunbathing, in a field on a rock outcrop. This was at my 11.30 break, were it was that hot in the sun trap that I'd found, knowing I didn't need to rush, I just lay back and enjoyed the rays. Some 200m higher, and 1 hour later I was in the midst of a snow flurry on the top of the summit, only 30 minutes later to be back in the sun. In attempting to take pictures on the summit I had got quite a chill, but quickly thawed out, in the sun.
Having completed my laundry duties on the day I arrived into Kendal, to give the clothes more opportunity to dry, today rest day 3 was going to be a proper rest day. Any thoughts about going into the Lakes were to be dismissed, instead shopping in Kendal, with the knowledge that anything brought would have to be carried.
First was a memory stick, to stop me forgetting things, no, I noticed the YHA had a computer with a SD card reader, this way I have backed up my photo's so I am protected against any mishaps which may happen. Next coffee break, Costa's was full so I had a MacCoffee, yuk, but gave me, chance to send some mails. Next some new headphones, yes the pair I had been given weren't the most comfortable, but a life saver these last days, see if these new ones last to the end of the walk?
A replacement 2 litre dry bag to replace the one which has been eaten by a spill of my insect repellent, yep you heard that right, no wonder it scares the insects away, what does it do to skin, will find out.
Brought a second micro fleece as I often wear the Berghaus one during the day and to go out in on the night as the weather has been reasonable mild. So even I have been smelling myself, never a good sign. The one brought from the Mountain Hardware shop is both light and cheap, always a winning combination, plus had a great chat with the assistant manager about the walk, says he may try the walk himself, just do it!
Had a sausage roll from Greggs, my big weakness.
Off out on the town tonight, catching a movie and a meal, "Billy no mates hits Kendal".
Have posted a couple of photo's from previous days, today. Whilst, backing up my photo' noticed I have taken 500+ since losing my camera. Given I am going back to capture them (+100) and I've got 3.5 weeks to go, I'll have enough for a great slide show (estimate 1500 photo's, including one of the "Queen Hotel" - arrh!!!!). Invites to be sent out on my return. I'll make sure your all not busy that evening, know you won't wanna miss it!
Today has seen me pass through the half way mark of the walk, in terms of distance. Assuming the walk does turn out to be 900 miles exact (unlikely, but have to assume something) then I'd worked out the exact mileage that was the the half way point. I was hoping that this point would be at least scenic, if not have a bench. The first it just about meet, the second, sadly it didn't. The point will be memorable as it is not far from the M6 junction, to Kendal and Ambleside, I place were I pass quite often en route to the lakes. Sorry lads, your going to be bored of me mentioning that fact everytime we are off for a walking weekend in the Lakes - just warning!
Having got to this point, I just took it all in, lay back occupying the whole towpath, and listened to Snow Patrol - Chasing Cars which appropriately was on the MP3, (If I lay here......). Tried phoning my wife to share the news and generally got all "emotional".
The remaining distance of today's 31.6km total followed the Lancaster Canal into Kendal. However, the last six miles just followed the canal's old route as there was often little evidence of the canal, apart from a bridge in the middle of a field? And certainly no water.
Upon reaching Kendal, I bypassed the YHA, my accommodate for the next 2 nights and 3rd rest day, instead heading for a tea room for cream scones and tea.
I was having a half way party on my own.
The day or should I say night certainly didn't start that brilliantly, the accommodation I had to suffer was the worst, by far on the walk. I haven't mentioned in detail any accommodation to date. In the last week I have stayed in 2 excellent B&B's, Primrose Cottage at Church Minshull and Little Stubbins, just short of Garstang. Both these places were delightful and the owners could not have made me feel more welcome or done anymore, both made donations and I was even given another pair of headphones having broken the pair from home (4th).
Then came Carnforth and the Queen's Hotel, I get angry just typing the name!!!!!
I arrived to find it was accommodation linked to a pub, usually ok, but the place was a dive, all the fixture and fittings did not work, were broken etc. The landlady, who introduced herself when I walked in the pub, with her well oiled clientele, showed me the room, saying the tv would need adjusting (liar, it just didn't work). She also declared they were pulling out this week, hence the setting up of a karaoki as I walked in for there farewell party. I dined elsewhere, came back, went to my room with all sorts of noises, most out of tune, voices being broadcast to the world, it was that loud. Upstairs I could not either, watch the last weekend of the football season on the box, sleep due to the noise and the room also faced onto the "light" high street, or even have a cup of tea, NO milk.
Around, 23.30 thing quitened down, thank god, I was pulling my hair out by now, or was simulating the act.
The last insult was, even thought I made it clear that I required breakfast around 8.00, no one had woken to do it, there was the remnants from the previous nights party food, yuk. I was also to find a female who had probably passed out the night before, in the pub area, I asked her how to get out and discovered the fire exit was my means of escaping this hole. I left what I considered the stay was worth, before finding a suitable replacement breakfast two doors down at the Pit Stop. Here, I brought a snack for the day and filled my flask.
A nightmare encounter, best forgot, but unlikely.
So I am now ready for my rest day, the canals and the raining canals (yes it did rain this morning) are over until the Caledonia Canal from Fort William. The remainder of England and Cumbria lies ahead. Yes I past it into Cumbria today, however when crossing a motorway bridge I did note the gap between the Lancashire sign on the southbound and Cumbria on the northbound is some 400 meter. So when I was standing between, what county was I in? Is it one of those space/time rips which are appearing all over the place in Dr Who?
Soon after leaving Garstang I was exposed to the first view of the Lakeland Fells, a view which was to developed during the remaining distance of the 36.4 km total.
Having completed the first 30 or so km's at a good pace along the A6 and Lancaster Canal, I arrived at Hest Bank, at just gone 15.00, the pace was to then slow dramatically.
This was intentional, as I switched from walking along the Lancaster Canal, to dropping down onto Morecambe Bay and walking up the coastal path to Carnforth. The sea was out and the vast expanse of the sandy bay, with the scenic backdrop of the lakeland fells was my view for the next 2 hours. This was the first contact with the sea since leaving views of St Micheal Mount on Day 2. The next views of the sea will be across the North Sea, north of Inverness.
The need for travelling up the A6 to start the day, was explained in my previous blog, but as I approached Forton, I was so focused on my lh turn to the canal, that I almost missed the sight of the M6 Forton Service Station Tower on my rh side. Upon seeing it, it was instantly recongnisable. This service station is almost exactly 2 hours from home when travelling to the Lakes and an landmark I often look for, to judge my pace. Secondly there is history with the tower.
When travelling to the Lakes with friends years ago, our friend was convinced the tower rotated and when we pulled into the services, we all including ours kids went up in the lift, to find not a rotating view platform, but a stationary storage area. So seeing it unexpectedly, made me cuckle to myself.
I did receive some bad news today, Justin, who I meet around Bristol Airport, e-mailed me saying he called it quits at Tiverton. I naturaly felt gutted for him, but he seemed to be in reasonable spirits about it, saying he'll probally complete it later, that aside to walk that distance is a "feat" in itself and his 6 year old daughter is right to be proud of him. Nice to hear from you Justin.
The first mile of the 417 completed to date
A short day today of 30.2km, due to administration issues of booking the B&B's last year. Today's walk was due to be around 34km, but the accommodation where I was due to stay, when I checked prior to the walk didn't recongnise my booking. (blamed it on me booking to early) So a last minute substitute had to be arranged. The only issue was this was 4 km closer, which today is great, but I'll have to make it up tomorrow. So I am already looking for short cuts tomorrow, which will reduce the mileage (howcome you don't say kilometerage?) Staying off the meandering canals for a few miles should help.
I had a great walk day today and even with rests arrived at the B&B at 15.15, this being too early, I made my way down to the local hospitable pub (not) and am typing this drinking a pint of Stella.
Bar the last 2 miles the walk, it has been on quite major roads, across the River Ribble and through the centre of Preston.
I noted numerous speed cameras through Preston, which I'm sure as I passed one I was motoring so fast that I triggered it. Initial I thought that's OK, they can't trace me, no registration on my back. Then panic set in, I have a traceable plate on my rear, that of - Reg. plate of 8erghau5. (berghaus). So I'll have to wait and see. Will work on my defence, including diminished responsibilities or duress, tomorrow.
Today's weather according to the forecast was cloudy, possibly wet with strong cold north westerly winds. It was a bit nippy to start with but ended up in T shirt from 11.00 and applying sun cream as it was that warm. I'll have days like this anyday.
Last week I thanked 2 people whom without their support this project would never have gotten past the planning stage, a 'No' from either would have killed the project dead immediately. But to actually undertake this, there are others who also must be thanked to their support.
Firstly both my kids, who similar to their mother have given up things for it to happen.
Next my work collegues, who are keeping things ticking over at work, Cheers.
And, also my brother, who is their on call should I play my "I'm a celebrity get me otta ere card", and Ma & Pa for their support and encouragement.
Know what it feels like now to do one of those oscar awards speeches.
I was expecting a pretty uneventful day today and that's exactly what I got. The 36.4km walk to Chorley started on the busy A49 (sorry I got it wrong yesterday). The walk was as much stop/start as yesterday, this time due to the number of busy road junctions with pedestrian lights. The walk was colourful with the number of big superstores and shopping parks, for 2 miles it was almost continuous.
I reckon, that from the range of shops, I could have built a house (Wicks and B&Q superstore, furnished it, brought a car and then had a game of 10 pin bowling.
Soon after crossing the M56 the views improved with my first sight of the Pennines. These views however, weren't to last, with towns soon taking centre stage.
It was as I was entering on of the towns en route that I had a strange feeling. Referring to yesterday's state of pregnancy, I think I had my first craving. I wanted, needed a custard tart. Priority now switched to finding a tart, the first try failed, a general convenience store didn't have the tart that I desired, but informed me that there was a bakery further on in the town. Off I went, finding what I thought was the bakery, but was another convenience store, this time with a bakery attached. After waiting some time for a previous customers breakfast order for an army to be completed, I brought my tart.
And what a tart, not your normal 2" diameter tart, but more like 3.5" and almost twice as deep. Down it went. Craving satisfied, for now anyway, what's going to happen when I hit the remote areas of Scotland?
Today have have contact with two separate groups undertaking the adventure on bikes. In the B&B there was a supported group of lads cycle down from JOG, hoping to do it in 9 days, good luck lads. The second was a couple, travelling slower, who I spoke to when satisfying my craving.
Later on in the day I was back on the canals, this time the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, I started by climbing 16 locks, which for some reason I thought I was going to descended. I am neither going to Leeds or Liverpool, but this provides a good off road option to Chorley.
By the time I was on the canal the skies had brightened, from the mornings darkness and I was to have a rain free day. This goes against the trend of raining on the canals, but last time I walked this canal, doing the Thirlmere Way, I got soaked, not 5 miles away from where I ended today, walking to Abby Village.
It was on the canal, dispite stating previous that you don't see the changes in county's on the canals like you do on the road that I came across the "Lancashire" sign. However, this was miles aways from where the map said it was suppose to be?
One week on from "13", I am still struggling with a lingering pain in the lh shin, but my thoughts today have reflected on that walk into Worcester and the pain, hopefully its the last of that!!!!!!
For the record, when I look back on this in the future, there was a general election yesterday and apart from being a hung parliament I haven't a clue about the details, who got what etc... But I do know I'm walking to Garstang tomorrow and really enjoying myself, that's not to say its not hard or challenging, but its just great, and anyone out there who has thought about doing this, should, its a buzz.
Finally, thanks for those who continue to help me with their comments, mails and text.
